Akanksha Saxena
ISPP and summer intern 2009

Song of the Khwaja
Exploring the mores of Nizammudin Basti, a Muslim enclave south of Delhi, was an experience beyond description. As we entered the Basti there was a different look of India altogether. People in white and colourful caps, women in burkhas and sarees, beggars with hands outstretched for alms. The colour, sound, and the smell led us in to explore the many small lanes and shops, the monuments and life peculiar to the Basti.

We started down the lane – past the small shops selling flowers, food, clothes, souvenirs, religious relics like Surma (black sand), religious books and meswak (tree bark for cleaning teeth). What looked like a small market from outside were a myriad of narrow lanes and alleys stretching for more than a kilometre.

People were busy savouring biryanis, buying skull-caps, chaddars and getting ready to grace the beloved saint at the dargah. These followers call themselves Aashique-e-Nizamuddin Chishti (lover of Nizamuddin).

There is a Tabligh Jamat Markaz few steps down the street. Tabligh Jamat is an Islamic school of thought. It is fascinating to witness two ends of spectrum, Sufism and Tablighi Jamat, flourishing in the same area.

After walking for a while we entered a place called Urs Mahal also known as Chausath Khamba (64 poles). Indeed, 64 pillars hold the monument. This monument built in white marble is a spectator’s delight. Beside the Urs Mahal is the Ghalib Academy. Ghalib is one of the renowned Urdu poets of all times. He started writing poetry at the time of colonial rule but he found fame posthumously for his Urdu ghazals.

Our next stop was the dargah of Hazrat Nizammudin Auliya. Walking towards the dargah, it was an overwhelming treat for any non-vegetarian with the restaurants hanging their best items outside — seekh kebabs, tikkas, tandoori chicken, delicious biryani and dates. We placed our chappals (sandals) for free with a florist who asked if we would buy some flowers from him. The scent of bright red roses filled the place. We entered the dargah, the place of miracles, and the place of changing lives.

The famous humanitarian Sufi saint, Hazrat Nizammudin Chishti was born in Uttar Pradesh in 1236. He was a disciple of the Saint Sheikh Farid Shakarganj. He is buried here and so do several of his followers. This place is now like a residence to his descendants and followers.

Those who came to meet the Khwaja had tears in their eyes. “There are magical healing powers in this sanctum. I have witnessed it all my life. Khwaja is a messenger to Allah, when you ask for mannat (wish), he asks Allah to grant it”, Tayyaba, 80, from Aligarh explain jubilantly while her wrinkled face beams with peaceful fulfilment.

We found lots of open and close mausoleums around this place. The story behind it, as many locals say, is that the followers of Hazrat Nizammudin wanted to remain close with him even after their deaths, and thus by burying themselves nearby Nizamuddin’s mausoleum they believed they would join him in the afterlife. These followers include, Jahanaara, daughter of Shahjahan, Amir Khusro, Mirza Ghalib, Hazrat Inayat Khan and many more.

Walking the Heritage
Aamir, 17, is getting ready to go for his evening class at British Council, where he is learning functional English. As he combs his hair he tells us the story that changed his life. “I was playing with a top near one of the several graves in the area. A van stopped by, and they as asked me to come to their office. They were from Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC). When I went there they told me about the requirements of tourist guides in the area.”

“I took the training under senior guides and now they have enrolled me at British Council for learning English. I will be eternally grateful to them for changing my mundane life by making me self-reliant.”, shares a confident Aamir.

The heritage walk – popular with tourists – is conducted by several foundations which employ local youths as guides for the Basti. The foundations are involved in upliftment of local youth who are otherwise wasted in unemployment and drug addiction.

The 90-minutes walk took us to places like Tabligh Jamat Markaz, Hazrat Inayat khan dargah, Ghalib ki mazar, Amir Khusro mausoleum, Ghalib’s mausoleum, Shiva temple and dargah of Hazrat Nizammudin Auliya.
Three guides accompanied us, explaining the brief history of the places. We left the Basti with a feeling that we would soon be back again to know more about the place and the people.

The Mystic Stranger
We saw a person in the crowd wearing a tobe (white gown) with his dark Ray Ban shades puffing smoke in the air. We approached him with curiosity and apprehension. “May I help you?” he asked. His articulate confidence and energy belies his age. Syed Akram Abbas, 65, is a Canadian who has lived in Hyderabad, India. He is an imam at a mosque in Toronto and a retired telecommunication consultant.

Syed Akram had come especially for the Urs which ended on April 6. He said that he would go back to his native country once he gets the permission from Nizamuddin Chishti whom he refers as his master. He explained to us the religion he follows – Roomy and Sufism, “I believe and follow love and peace; this is what I call a religion, the true Sufism.”

Syed Akram became our guide and showed us around the Basti. He showed us the graves of famous people and explained its significance to Islam and Sufism. Suddenly there came an elderly lady begging in the dargah. He told her that Allah told his people to not beg but to earn. He gave her his blessings and she went away. Soon afterwards, he was surrounded by devotees trying to get first hand blessings from him.

He invited boys to follow him as he offered his namaz. Out of habit and with Syed Akram’s permission the boys started to take some pictures inside. Suddenly they noticed that there were some strange faces looking at them with disapproval.

As they continued to shoot, a man came up to demand that they delete the photos or he would break my camera. Syed Akram came to their rescue and told the person Islam does not prohibit anyone from taking pictures.

Akram then introduced me to Pir Khwaja Afzal Nizami, president of ‘HASAK World Peace Mission.’ He chants recitations – a form of ‘medical blessings’ – to treat the sick.

It was 4 pm when Syed Akram invited us to one of the restaurants for. He ordered vegetarian because he follows Sufism and that’s why he only eats once a day. The lunchtime conversations included Taslima Nasreen to Rajasthan, from Sadiya Dehlvi’s writings to Tablighi Jamaat.

“You are children of One God. Take this world forward through peace and brotherhood,” he concluded.